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What are the main functions of Angelica extract?

Angelica Sinensis is the root of Angelica Sinensis (Oliv.) Diels, which has the functions of invigorating blood and promoting blood circulation, regulating menstruation and relieving pain, moistening the bowel, and being laxative. 1]. Angelica Sinensis is not only a commonly used medicine in traditional Chinese medicine but also has a good cosmetic effect. The purchasing trend is gradually changing from basic products to functional products with complex functions. . Angelica is rich in volatile oils, organic acids and polysaccharides and other active ingredients. Its root powder, extracts and active ingredient ferulic acid are included in the "Catalogue of Cosmetic Raw Materials Used" (2015 edition) as cosmetic efficacy raw materials, and have received beauty treatments. It has attracted wide attention from the industry and has a high frequency of use in Chinese cosmetics. This article will review the role of angelica extract and its active ingredients in cosmetics, and provide a theoretical basis for its further development and application in cosmetics.

1. Whitening and freckle removal

Whitening cosmetics is one of the main categories of skincare products and is very popular. Its development has always been the focus of cosmetics developers at home and abroad. The color of human skin mainly depends on the melanin in the skin. When the amount of melanin increases too fast or the distribution is uneven, it will cause local skin hyperpigmentation and pigment deposition, causing various skin diseases such as chloasma, freckles, and age spots. Tyrosinase activity determines the amount of melanin formation. The whitening and freckle-removing effects of Angelica sinensis have been reported in a large number of literature. Its water extract, alcohol extract, polysaccharide and ferulic acid can be used for whitening or treating melasma by inhibiting the synthesis of melanin by inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase. In recent years, plant essential oils have shown good application prospects in the field of whitening as a new type of tyrosinase inhibitor. The volatile oil of Angelica Sinensis is the main active component of Angelica Sinensis, which has an excellent ability to promote transdermal absorption. Whether it has a potential inhibitory effect on tyrosinase activity needs further research to confirm.

2. Moisturize

The moisture content of the stratum corneum of healthy skin should be maintained at 10% to 20% by mass. When the moisture content is lower than 10% by mass, the skin will be dry, rough, and even chapped. Therefore, moisturizing and hydrating have become the most basic demands of consumers for the efficacy of cosmetics. It has been reported in the literature that Angelica Sinensis has a good moisturizing effect, which may be mainly achieved by the polysaccharides contained in it. At present, a large number of plant polysaccharides have been found to have moisturizing and hydrating functions. The moisturizing effect of polysaccharides lies in that the polar groups contained in them can form hydrogen bonds with water molecules to bind a large amount of water. At the same time, polysaccharides also form a rich extracellular gel matrix with fibrin in the stratum corneum, providing moisture to the skin. . In addition, polysaccharides have good film-forming properties, which can build an artificial moisturizing barrier for the skin and reduce the evaporation of water on the skin surface. It can be seen that the active ingredients and moisturizing mechanism of Angelica Sinensis still need further research and conformation.

3. Protect Skin

The skin is the target organ directly affected by solar radiation. Ultraviolet rays in sunlight are an important factor leading to skin sunburn, aging and skin cancer. Therefore, it is very important to use sunscreen products rationally. It has been reported in the literature [13] that Angelica Sinensis has a sunscreen effect, and the active ingredient ferulic acid contained in it has a good absorption effect on ultraviolet rays in the wavelength range of 290-330 nm, and can significantly inhibit human epidermal keratinocytes caused by medium-wave ultraviolet (UVB) rays. (Ha Ca T cells) apoptosis, cell cycle arrest, oxidative damage and p16, c-myc protein expression and enhance their antioxidant defense capacity, and can significantly protect human fibroblasts from long-wave ultraviolet (UVA) damage.

4. Anti-aging

Skin aging is the most easily observed appearance change in the human aging process, which is manifested as skin relaxation, decreased elasticity, increased wrinkles, decreased luster and tenderness, etc., which are caused by free radicals, telomerase, genetics, mitochondrial damage, etc. It is the result of the combined action of exogenous factors and exogenous factors such as photoaging and environmental pollution. Angelica volatile oil can effectively increase the secretion of collagen type I (Col-I) from human dermal fibroblasts (HDF-α). Angelica Sinensis water extract can reduce the content of LF, MDA, type III collagen, the apoptosis rate and the expression of Bax protein in skin fibroblasts, increase the content of type I collagen and HYP, improve the cell proliferation ability and the expression of SOD, GSH-Px It has the ability to scavenge DPPH free radicals and complex ferrous ions at the same time. Angelica polysaccharide has DPPH free radical scavenging effect, and ferulic acid can make the skin delicate, soft and shiny. To sum up, the volatile oil, water extract, alcohol extract, polysaccharide and ferulic acid of Angelica Sinensis all have good anti-aging effects and have good application prospects in anti-aging cosmetics.

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